What Makes Some Tiffany Lamps Much More Valuable Than Others?

There are many things that determine the value of an authentic Tiffany Studios lamp. It doesn't matter if it is a floor, table, desk or hanging shade. The same basic things factor into how appealing the lamp will be to collectors and therefore, how much they are willing to pay for a given lamp. Some lamps with the same design are worth much more. Here are some of the reasons they are valuable and why some are worth much more than others.

This information relates to the "fair market" value of a Tiffany Studios lamp when sold at public auction or privately. The price or values one sees in a retail Tiffany or antique gallery or at an antique show, are often considerably higher than what one sees on the same (as close as possible) lamp at an auction or privately. This is due to overhead and other factors the dealer or retail store must factor into the price. Also, insurance appraisals are generally "inflated" on anything antique or unusual, including Tiffany Studios lamps.

These things generally factor into how much a Tiffany Studios lamp is worth It is interesting to note that even five lamps of the same pattern and size shade can vary in price greatly, due to the colors of glass in the shade, the type or types of glass used, the condition, and if it is a lamp with a base, the quality and desirability of the base.

1. Rarity: If it is a particularly rare shade design that Tiffany did not make many of, or that were expensive at the time of purchase in the early 20th century, c. 1900-1915 (The "Wisteria" pattern lamp is a good example, costing about $400. at that time) the value and desirability of the lamp can be greatly increased. Below is an example of a very nice authentic Tiffany Studios "Wisteria" table lamp:

2. The Colors In The Glass Shade: The colors of the glass in a Tiffany lamp shade, particularly the leaded glass shades, can make a large difference in value. One 18 inch dragonfly shaded table lamp can be worth 2-4 times or more from another the same size on the same base, simply because the colors are more vibrant and appealing to collectors. The same is true of course with his many different floral design shades.

3. Types of Glass Used: Tiffany had many kinds of glass he used in his leaded shades. If a lamp has "fancy" glass such as 'confetti,' or 'fractured,' it enhances the aesthetic look and rarity of the shade, therefore causing the value and appeal of the lamp to be higher. Likewise, the flat, plain glass, or the glass that the Tiffany Studios Lamp Department used, some of which was purchased from outside glass makers, is not as popular or attractive. This can cause a lamp to be worth less money. The bottom line regarding the glass is that value is mostly determined by the intensity of color and types of glass used.

4.  Shade and Base Condition: While it is not uncommon for most leaded shades above 16" in diameter to have a very few tight "hairline cracks" in a few panes of glass (1-6 panes is considered minor) if there are excessive cracks or chips to the glass, or separation at the solder joints or seams in the shade, or if the shade is "out of round," these things can effect the value of a shade greatly. Even the most desirable shade with with dense colors and an appealing design is going to be devalued greatly if the condition is such that the lamp needs many thousands of dollars in restoration. After restoration of course, the lamp has lost some of it's "integrity" and value, since the original glass has been replaced.

5. Size and Shape of the Shade: Size is a factor in determining the value for all Tiffany Studios lamps. The shade size is most influential to the value. There are some rare 'miniature' shades where shades were produced in limited editions and therefore they are highly desirable today. Likewise, all other things being equal as to colors, condition, pattern, quality and type of glass, a larger shade on a desk, table, hanging or floor lamp is going to be worth more money to most collectors. Regarding shape: Some shade models like the 'helmet-shaped,' 'horizontally flat,' 'bell shape' or 'sharp-shouldered' are not generally as popular with collectors because their forms draw the eye first, before the viewer can focus and appreciate the designs and combinations of color in the shade.

6. Base Style: If the Tiffany lamp has a base, it can add a little or quite a bit to the overall value of a desk, table or floor lamp. The fancier and more unusual the base is, the more the total lamp will be worth to a collector. Some lamps have very fancy shades and are on plain bases, while some very plain shades have bases which are worth as much or more than the shades. Also, the correct or optimum base for a shade has great impact in today's market. Certain shades were designed with their own bases, and such pairings should never be violated or mixed up. Doing so will lower the appeal of the lamp and therefore the value. Today's well educated collectors are aware of what is considered the most desirable shade and base combination, and they will often shop for the two separately if necessary to get the ideally paired shade and base.

See below examples of two extremely fancy and valuable bases; one with 'blown out' glass (bottom photo) and one with a much sought after 'twisted vine' bronze base (top photo):

                                                                      

Antique Tiffany Lamps - How To Tell Authentic Tiffany Lamps From Forgeries or Fake Lamps

Authentic, antique Tiffany lamps are both lovely and beautiful. Nobody wants to spend thousands, tens of thousands or hundreds of thousands on a lamp that turns out to be a very good forgery. It's estimated that for every authentic Tiffany Studios lamp still in existence, there are 2-3 forged or fake Tiffany Studios lamps. That should give the person wanting to buy or already collecting authentic Tiffany lamps pause at the very least!

Below I will give you what I know to be some tips on evaluating a lamp that is purported to be an antique, authentic Tiffany Studios lamp. It is not 100% infallible of course, but if even one or two of the tips prevent you from possibly purchasing a forged, fake lamp, it will be worth reading. Whenever in doubt, ask a Tiffany lamp specialist to look at the lamp for you, or only buy from a dealer, private broker, or established auction house who will give you a written guarantee of authenticity.

After you buy the lamp, I suggest showing very clear digital photos to another recognized expert for their opinion (send photos of the signature marks, and of the base and shade with light coming through the shade).

Below are things to look for on the shade first. Keep in mind these are only guidelines, although some, having to do with the signature marks, are more likely to be pretty solid clues than some of the other things. Not all lamps were made alike and not all lamps are stored over time alike. Some lamps will have much loose glass which might "rattle" and some might not.

Evaluating the Shade of an "Authentic Tiffany Studios Leaded Lamp" - Consider These Things, In No Particular Order

1. Know what shapes of shades Tiffany made. He only made a few shapes, regardless of the design. Once you know the shapes of shades he made, you can automatically rule out a shade simply because of the shade being nothing that Tiffany Studios ever produced. Click On This Link to see the shapes of the shades on my web site. A very, very few rare examples ("Cobweb," "Bat" lamp, and a few others were made), but the shapes on the above page link will cover 95% of the leaded shades commonly seen.

2. Authentic Tiffany leaded shades are going to be made of glass only. Never, ever plastic or anything else. Most of the time you can tap on a pane and tell by the sound. Also, glass shades will weigh much more than those with plastic "glass."

3. The "tap the glass" and "shake the shade" techniques: Never use these two tests to talk yourself into thinking a lamp shade is authentic Tiffany. The logic is that over time, the things used to hold the glass tight in the shade in its pattern dried out and shrank, leaving some of the glass a bit "loose."

People are told to use their knuckle to gently tap the glass panes. In theory, if you hear a rattle or the sounds of glass shifting, the shade is authentic Tiffany. It is only a possible sign that the shade is old. Obviously not all shades will be authentic Tiffany!

To make his shades, Tiffany's workers used copper foil which was created in wide sheets that were cut into thin strips that were then wrapped around the individual panes of glass. To have the inside of the foil stick to the glass, the copper was brushed with liquid beeswax before the foil was applied. It is this wax that dries out over the years, leading to the issue of the "loose panes" that sometimes rattle; not always and certainly not evidence one way or another that a shade is authentic Tiffany Studios.

Some "experts" tell you to hold the shade on each side and "shake it up and down." This is supposed to also cause one to hear glass noises of rattling or movement. Shake and tap if you wish. Depending on where you tap, how you shake, and what size and design the shade is, it could be authentic and tight without noise, or it could be a bit loose and have a "rattle. Not the most reliable test.

4. Look at the glass. Tiffany glass is known for it's vivid colors, glass surface irregularities (from ridges to fissures and lines that look like "seams") and often mottling or other things, like air bubbles and other imperfections. Other old shades can have these also, but a shade where all the glass is smooth and shiny and without any imperfections (new looking) should be suspect.

5. Some forgers actually colored the glass with types of paint instead of buying colored glass! If you wish, take a small amount of fingernail polish removal (acetone) and use a "Q-Tip" on a small area. If any color comes off, walk away! Do not put the solution on someone else's lamp without their permission, and do not put it on any metal parts.

6. Look for "hairline" or other cracks to the shade glass. It is rare (not impossible) to find a 16-25 inch authentic, old leaded glass shade without any cracks. The cracks one finds can be from  hot light bulbs, from age, or from a trauma of some kind. Old cracks will usually have dirt and dust in them, making the crack stand out by being dark within the crack itself. See a photo below of cracked glass in an authentic Tiffany Studios lamp.

Evaluating the Base of a Supposed Authentic Tiffany Studios Lamp

1. Tiffany used bronze (a bronze alloy actually) on his metal bases. He rarely used anything else. On his metal base bottoms look for his stamped marks. He only used all capital letters without any "serif." It will say "TIFFANY STUDIOS NEW YORK" and occasionally "TIFFANY FURNACES NEW YORK" (without the quotes). Always all caps. Below that signature name is the model number of the base, usually a three or occasionally four digit number. These are all stamped into a bottom "plate" on the bottom of the base. While the numbers can sometimes not be exactly aligned like the letters, the tops and bottoms of the letters should all be aligned. If you see that they are in misalignment, it is a giveaway of a fake.                          

 See authentic signatures on the base plate and on the shade inner rim edge below.

If the stamp is on the inner curve of a cone shaped shade, it can be somewhat hard to read or distorted slightly, but usually the letters still line up well. Sometimes there is also a "monogram" mark, with the initials "TGDCO" within it on base signatures. This was done when Tiffany used his decorating company as his mark. These are likewise acceptable, but you should also see the words TIFFANY STUDIOS NEW YORK. If you remove the bottom plate, (screws hold it on) you should see a gray metal ring. Most of Tiffany's bronze bases were actually hollow with a heavy ring of lead inside to make them substantial enough to to safely hold the heavy shades. If you see a base that is pot metal, zinc, brass, plastic, or wood, it is not by Tiffany Studios.

Tiffany never used onyx, plastic, ivory or anything other than occasionally authentic Tiffany glass in his bronze bases. If you see figures of people or other similar things on his bases, likewise, they would not be by Tiffany. 

Other Things To Look At In Evaluating A Supposed "Authentic Tiffany Lamp"

Look at the electrical sockets. If they are original, they will have porcelain or old discolored metal liners inside. The majority of Tiffany's sockets also used hard plastic "paddle" turn knobs to turn the lights on and off. You will see a few authentic lamps with pull chains, but they are not common in his early lamps. If the sockets say "UL approved" or "Made in USA" or worse, "Made in China," be very wary. While the rest of the lamp could be authentic and have been re-wired with new sockets, it is still a "red flag." Tiffany never bought from China, and there were no "UL approved" standards or markings used during the years 1898-1928! 

And always remember: Simply because you see a lovely leaded glass lamp with a bronze base that has the same floral, geometric or dragonfly pattern you have seen in books or museums, on my web site, or in a legitimate Tiffany Studios lamp gallery somewhere, it does not mean anything. Anyone with good artistic skills and the right glass and metal and other parts can create a lamp to make it look "just like" an authentic Tiffany Studios original. 

The markings, the glass, some other hints above, and much experience in looking at what you know to be genuine, authentic Tiffany Studios lamps, will help you see the differences. If you are unsure, show it to an expert, get a written money back guarantee, or say goodbye to it and save your money until you know 100% certain that what you are buying is "right." Even then, as I suggested earlier, get a "guarantee of authenticity" in writing, and preferably show the lamp to an expert for their opinion while you are still within the purchase state's "statute of limitations." That way, you can either return your lamp with more authority, or if worse comes to worse, take legal action to recover your money if you made an expensive mistake.

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Dennis

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Authentic Tiffany Lamps - Antique and Authentic, Fake, Restored and "One of A Kind."

Antique Tiffany lamps which are authentic Tiffany lamps (made by Tiffany Studios between about 1898-1928) come in many varieties. When they are authentic, without restoration and in excellent condition, that is the kind a collector wants to seek out.

Of course you don't want a fake or forged lamp. I personally define a fake as an unsigned "wannabe Tiffany" that is perhaps old, and "Tiffany style" but which was not made by Tiffany Studios. I define "forged" as a lamp that looks like a decent to very good example of a lamp Tiffany Studios, but which has non original Tiffany Studios signature marks on the shade, and or the base. These are seen on many lamps offered for sale since the early 1960's. They are sometimes made with old die stamps, but often made from newer stamps that usually not of the same quality.

Below is a great example of an authentic, antique Tiffany lamp that might not be a "good "buy," cost wise, since it is a rare lamp that commanded a high price in competitive bidding at auction, but it is certainly nice to look at for many collectors. It is a rare Tiffany "Pink Lotus" pattern lamp. It sold at Christie's Auction House in December 2013 for $2.8 million.

When considering buying an authentic Tiffany lamp, learn to look closely for prior restorations or other things not right, such as:

1. Traces of glue (which is sometimes put in pane cracks to pull them together or make them not show as easily).
2. Glass colors or textures that do not match or look right. 
3. Sloppy solder spots or uneven soldering inside the shade usually, whereas the rest of the shade's soldering is smooth and even. 
4. Unusual green or "froggy" green patination to the shade solder and other metal, often used by forgers in a sloppy attempt to simulate an old patina; but they go overboard.
5. Look at the signature marks on both shade and base. The simple rule is that TIFFANY STUDIOS NEW YORK is in all capital plain letters and no lower case letters at all. Also important on shade and base signatures is that the tops of the letters are in good alignment, meaning no crooked letters an no "up and down" letters. If the signature is on a curved spot or rolled edge, it will be of course not as clean and precise. Look at other things in those cases, including the base signature if the lamp has a base.

Above is a good example of a rather poorly forged Tiffany Studios mark, although it could fool many people. Note both the use of upper and lower case letters and the uneven alignment of the numbers below the signature mark.

About "one of a kind" and "prototype" Tiffany lamps

I receive calls and view emailed photos at least a half dozen times a year from people who claim they have an authentic Tiffany lamp but because it was so early, or "one of a kind" or a "prototype," there are no markings at all, and usually it does not even look anything like an authentic Tiffany Studios lamp. Some of the lamps I have seen have even had wooden bases! If someone knows better, please feel free to prove it, but I don't recall even being told by a reliable source or having read that Tiffany ever had prototypes that survived or that he did "one of a kind" lamps. 

Certainly the "Cobweb" and "Bat" lamps are very, very rare. But even they were not "one of a kind." When looking to buy beware of stories that use the terms "one of a kind" or "prototype." Perhaps someday someone will find at a garage sale or thrift store a "one of a kind" lamp that is determined by the world's experts to be a prototype of "one of a kind."  If so, I hope to be there at the same time, so as to purchase the undiscovered original Rembrandt or Pollock painting that is in the same sale.

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Dennis

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Antique Tiffany Lamp Values: Authentic Tiffany Lamp Values Vary Greatly

Most people who collect antiques or read antique publications are aware that an authentic Tiffany lamp is not something one can easily buy for a few hundred dollars unless a person gets extremely lucky, or unless something is wrong with the lamp or shade, such as condition, prior restorations or something else.

Unlike other areas of antiques and collectibles, where there might be two or three or four styles or "grades" (as in "average," better, best and rare examples), genuine Tiffany lamps can be seen in literally hundreds of styles, sizes, materials, shapes and colors, all of which determine their fair market value. Keep in mind that buying at an auction or privately can be much less expensive than if you buy from a large, fancy gallery which has high overhead and other costs.

Someone wanting to start collecting authentic Tiffany Studios lamps can actually buy something like an all glass small "candle stick" lamp as pictured below. The pair of lovely authentic Tiffany Studios all glass 14 inch high lamps sold at Christie's Auction House in New York in 2011 for just a little over $8000. for the pair! While that is not as inexpensive as many antiques, the cost is well within what many collectors will pay for a nice antique piece of furniture, tall case clock, large antique oriental rug, oil painting, antique French doll and many other things. Below are the two lamps as photographed for the Christie's sale:

The next step up the value ladder as far as Tiffany Studios lamp value would be the desk lamp with a cased glass "Favrile" shade. They can range from 6 inches in diameter to about 10 inches, for the desk style lamps.The two commonly found styles are plain base and "counterbalance" base, which adds to the value and cost at a private sale or auction. These are very commonly found and the glass shades are found in colors of green, gold/amber and blue.

This photo above shows a "counter balance" desk lamp with a green glass "Favrile" shade. The shades are iridescent when not lighted and change color when lighted. These commonly sell now in the more common gold and green colored 6-10 inch shade sizes for between $6000-$9,500. at auction.

Above is a common example of a dome shaped "Favrile" shade in a dimple "harp" base. The price range for these in green and gold shades (unlighted color) is usually in the $3,200-$5,000 range at auction these days. If the shade color is in the more rare and very desirable blue color, the value can easily double.

Next in value come the geometric design shades with plain (nothing fancy) glass. They come in hanging shades and those with a table or floor base. Those with bases will cost more, assuming the shades are similar in value. I will only show the table examples with bases in this blog. They usually are in green or gold/amber colored glass colors. The common shade sizes are 16-20 inches. Assuming the base is not very rare and uncommonly valuable, the geometric lamps can be bought between about $8000-$25,000 at auctions, depending on the shade diameter, how rich the colors are and the base style.  See one example below.

The plain green geometric 18 inch shade on a canister or urn shaped base above will usually sell in the $14,000-$19,000 price range at auction.

One step above we see the floral shaded lamps. The prices start to jump up here, because the pattern, the richness or the glass colors, glass type, and the base style, will make for a wide swing in prices, even when comparing several lamps with the same pattern in the shade. Excluding the rarest patterns and very expensive bases, lamps like tulip, daffodil, peony, dogwood and poppy will sell in the $40,000-$100,000+ price range, depending on shade size, glass colors and style of the base. It's quite a wide price range, but as I stated above, simply a change in glass color can double the value (or more) of a lamp, compared to another lamp with the same pattern.

Above is a nice red "Poppy" table lamp with a 20 inch shade, which has a more expensive "twisted vine" base. It sold for $135,750 in 2013. Without the fancy base the price would probably have been closer to $100,000. The "Poppy" pattern is very popular among collectors.

And while there are many lamps in the $50,000-$75,000 price range in dragonfly, floral and other patterns, I'll skip to the very high end of the lamps, and show a rare patterned lamp which sold recently.

The very rare Tiffany Studios "Snowball" pattern table lamp above brought a very healthy $459,750 at auction at Christie's New York auction house in June 2013. Prices like this are rare, and as illustrated above, there are many very lovely authentic Tiffany Studios lamps available to collectors for $50,000 and under. As with collecting or buying anything else, quality and rarity will cost more. An individual who wants a Tiffany Studios lamp in their antique collection can still have as seen above, a nice example for between $6,000-$40,000.

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Antique Tiffany Lamps and Authentic Tiffany Lamps Are Not Often The Same Thing

After another month of receiving phone calls, emailed forms and photos in email from people who have found my web site and who believe that just because the lamp they have is 60-90 years old and might even look somewhat like the lamps that Tiffany Studios made between and about 1898-1928, I am going to explain the difference again. So many people live with what they have been told by family or friends is an authentic Tiffany lamp, and very valuable. Unfortunately, this is often not the case.

Using the term "antique" Tiffany Lamp to most people (not knowledgeable collectors) means an old table, hanging, floor, desk or table type shade or lamp, with a base which has leaded, colored or otherwise "stained" glass in it.  To most people, it implies the lamp is authentic and valuable.This is not often accurate. There are some simple criteria a lamp of any pattern or style must meet to be a true, authentic Tiffany lamp. All the rest of the "antique Tiffany lamps" floating around the world are just "Tiffany style" lamps, and some are not at all close to looking like what Tiffany Studios ever created.

So, to be clear, to be an authentic Tiffany lamp, a shade or lamp with a base needs to have at a minimum, the following:

1. It has to have been made between the years 1898-1928, when Tiffany was in business and had a company making his lamps. While there were no doubt lamps still sold after 1930 that were "left over inventory," anything bought "new" in a store after about 1935 are not likely to be authentic Tiffany lamps unless they meet the rest of the criteria below.

2. If it is a lamp with a base, the bottom of the base plate should be stamp signed, "Tiffany Studios New York," (in all capital, non serif letters), almost always with a model number below that, or marked "Tiffany Furnaces" instead of "Tiffany Studios." There are rare exceptions to this rule, but they are quite rare. A very few bases were made of art pottery, but they will be also marked Tiffany Studios on the bottom of the art pottery base. A few the bases on the leaded glass shaded lamps were made of Tiffany glass, but it will be "etch signed" into the glass on the bottom, "L.C.T. Favrile."

3. While some shades are not signed, the vast majority of them are signed. It will likewise say, stamped into the lower inner metal rim edge of the shade, "TIFFANY STUDIOS, NEW YORK." Signed in all capital block letters as illustrated below. Occasionally, the model number of the shade will also be on a bronze tag to the right of the signature. See below photos of signatures on the bases, and photos of the shade rim signatures.

Above are two base signature marks. One signature also includes the "monogram" stamp Tiffany used for a very short time period. Both have the model number below the signature.

Above are three shade rim signature marks for authentic Tiffany lamp shades. All three also have the model number to the right of the signature mark, but this is not always there, and makes no difference to authenticity or to value.

No matter the pattern of the shade or base, and no matter what you have been told as to age, to be an authentic Tiffany Studios lamp, versus a lamp that might well have been made when Tiffany was active, but is not a Tiffany Studios lamp, the lamp shade and/or base must meet the three basic above criteria. 

Please be aware that regardless of what you are told, have read, or believe from family stories, dealers, auction houses, or anyone else who might have once sold or given the lamp you have to someone you know or to you, a marked lamp can still be a forgery. Very good, signed (using the same marks as above) forgeries of most patterns of Tiffany lamps have been made since the early 1960's - over 50 years! 

If the lamp you own is signed as shown above, and you know for certain it has been in your family or in your possession since before 1960, there should be little risk of it being a forgery. Nevertheless, always have it checked by a Tiffany expert to be 100% certain it is authentic, and not just...an "antique Tiffany lamp."

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Dennis

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Authentic Tiffany Lamps, Original Tiffany Lamps, Genuine Tiffany Lamps - Do Those Terms Mean The Same Thing?

The words authentic Tiffany lamp, original Tiffany lamp and genuine Tiffany lamp appear in many places - from ads in online auctions to estate sale ads, to antique auctions, to notes left by Grandma Smith to her family in her Will.

To be technical and honest about this, there is only one situation where these terms are both accurate and truthful:

When the lamp shade or shade and base involved were actually made by Tiffany Studios, New York between about 1898-1930.

When the lamp has not had the shade or the base swapped for a newer part, to help sell it or display it or anything else. It is fine to preserve what is left, and to say that is authentic and genuine and original Tiffany. But if 50% of a table, hanging or floor lamp is original, authentic and genuine, then only the original part of the lamp is "right" and should be called authentic, original and genuine.

Many authentic Tiffany lamp shades have fallen prey to stray children's tossed balls, careless housekeeping or other mishaps. In the worst cases, it renders the shade non reparable and worthless. In the luckiest cases the shade and/or the base can be fixed well, if done by an expert restoration person; but the cost will not be inexpensive.

I realize I have a strong bias. But when I see people selling new reproductions of Tiffany Studios lamps and using the words authentic, antique, genuine and original, it irritates me. It's false advertising. People who know no different continue to think that any leaded shade - hanging, table or floor lamp is an authentic Tiffany lamp like was only made between 1898-1930, because they don't know or read up on the history. If they did they would realize that if a "Tiffany" (style) lamp is being made today, it cannot possibly be an authentic, original or genuine Tiffany Studios lamp!

As long as there is ink in my keyboard, and as long as I am an appraiser and private broker and strong lover of the fascinating and beautiful authentic lamp creations of Louis Comfort Tiffany, I will continue to educate people, to expose false advertising, and to point out forgeries and grossly misrepresented lamps people offer the public in various ways to make as much money as they can. If this means my subscription to the "Online Auctions Secret Club" (I don't know if there actually is one, but it is possible) is revoked, fine! There are enough people being fooled and taken by false, misleading advertising in food, investment, auto, healthcare, and other industries. There is no need to also fool or scam folks by saying that a lamp is an authentic, original or genuine Tiffany lamp when it is a "knock off," fake, phony, or other kind of reproduction (no matter how well made or how attractive). Call a horse a horse. But please don't call it Secretariat.

If people don't have the money for an authentic, original Tiffany lamp (and they can be bought for about $3000. on up these days, depending on the size and the type) it's fine with me if they buy reproductions. I just do not want people who have or do not have the money to spend on an authentic Tiffany lamp to buy something they believe to be the "real deal" and totally waste their money. Pictured below is an authentic, original, genuine Tiffany lamp.

I wrote this because even the best dictionaries do not differentiate well between these terms bandied about, and because every time I have to tell someone the lamp they inherited or bought is either a forgery or not authentic Tiffany, or not even terribly old, it is, after 42 years, still somewhat difficult for me. I want to try and avoid in any way I can, as many incidences of that happening in the future.  Honest, factual education I believe, is part of the solution to that problem - and many other problems.

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Dennis

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Authentic Tiffany Lamps - The Difference Between a "Tiffany Style" and an Authentic Tiffany Lamp

This is a re-posted blog, due to the continued confusion between an authentic Tiffany Studios lamp made between 1898-1928 and a "Tiffany style" lamp, which might be old, but which is not an authentic Tiffany lamp and has usually only decorative or low value to a serious Tiffany or other leaded glass lamp collector.

Daily and weekly I receive forms from my web site and photos in email from people who think they have an authentic Tiffany lamp, due to a family story (very common) or due to what a dealer or auctioneer or well meaning friend told them.

Forgeries and modern Tiffany reproductions aside, if people would simply look at the many photo examples on my web site on the examples page at:

http://www.antiquetiffanylamps.com/examples

and look at what I have posted on Google+ articles and other places, they would be able to tell if a shade has a chance of being authentic Tiffany or not. There is a clear difference visually in a "panel shaded" hanging shade, common in the 1915-35 time period and beyond, and in a leaded shaded hanging lamp that could be an authentic Tiffany lamp.

Below are two very clear photo examples of what I see often - a "panel shaded" lamp with glass top "crown" - not a shape or a style of lamp Tiffany Studios ever made - and a leaded shaded lamp (small pieces of colored glass, soldered together, to create a geometric, dragonfly or floral design in the shade) - which was what Tiffany Studios made and sold.

Above is an old (but not nearly old enough) hanging shade that many people would call a "Tiffany lamp." It is clearly not authentic Tiffany because of the shape, the fact that it is not a "leaded glass" shade (rather, a "paneled glass" shade"), and unless it was added later to fool someone, it will not have a Tiffany Studios signature mark on the inner bottom rim edge. The glass is what is loosely referred to as "slag" glass. Compare this lamp shade to the photos of a leaded, authentic, antique Tiffany shade below. There is no comparison as to shade shape, glass type, construction or other things. These paneled glass shades (in hanging, table and floor lamp styles) have been made since the time Tiffany was making his lamps, and continue to be made by new lamp companies. Some companies call them "Tiffany" and some do not. I don't approve of that unless they use the word "style" or "reproduction," yet many of the companies making them do not add those important descriptive words.

Above,is an authentic Tiffany hanging lamp. It is in the "cone" shape, which I show on my web site as one of the only shapes of shades Tiffany used in his lamps. It is made, as you can see, using many small, various shaped and colored glass pieces, which are soldered together to form the floral design. Compare this to the "paneled glass" shade above with glass top crown, and it should be clear what is a leaded shaded lamp and what is not. This can help clear up many people's idea of what might have a chance of being an "authentic Tiffany lamp" or simply an old (even 90 years old!) hanging shade with some colored or patterned glass in it.

Even if the top shade had a floral design or fruit in it, the shape is totally wrong and it would be clear that the pieces of glass were much larger. Many lamps which people think to be authentic Tiffany lamps are loosely "Tiffany style," if they have smaller soldered pieces of glass in them, and are not panel shaded. But the things that will differentiate them from an authentic Tiffany lamp will be the shape of the shade, the pattern/design, usually the lack of a signature mark, and the general quality.

Tiffany lamp shades and bases were always bronze alloy. The exceptions were a few art pottery bases made (still signed Tiffany Studios," and some bases (rare) which were made from Tiffany art glass. If a lamp is "pot metal" or any other metal other than bronze alloy, unless it is a very good quality forgery or very good quality reproduction, (a few of those companies will use a bronze alloy) it will never be an authentic, original Tiffany Studios lamp. If it is new and good quality, somewhere on the base or the shade there will almost always be a factory or company name. And that name will not say "Tiffany Studios New York" as the authentic lamps are marked. Of course any mark such as, "Made in USA" or "Made in China" automatically takes any chance of the lamp being an authentic Tiffany lamp out of the equation. His lamps were all made in New York, and he never used those marks.

Below are examples of a Tiffany style table lamp, and below that an authentic Tiffany Studios table lamp, (from c.1910-20) with the proper signature marks on the base (always signed) and on the shade (signed most of the time). The differences again, should be obvious between lack of signature on the base at least, as well as looking at the shape of the shades. Again, the only shapes of shades Tiffany made can be shown in many books and also in photos on my web site at Antique Tiffany Lamps.

The above "leaded glass" lamp is made by a very reputable modern company, but it is a reproduction lamp, in the "Tiffany style" only. It's value is that of a reproduction, and it is not something I would ever suggest anyone buy in hopes it will someday (perhaps in 75-100 years) be more valuable than it is when bought.

Above is an authentic Tiffany lamp. It has many various sized colored glass pieces, soldered together to make up what it referred to as a "geometric" pattern. It will also have the mark "Tiffany Studios New York" (in all capital letters) stamped into the bottom of the base, as well as a model number. Chances are great that the shade's inner rim will have the same signature mark on a small area, sometimes also with a model number. Again, this shade is in the cone shape that Tiffany used. The lamp above this lamp as you can see, has a large, wavy, irregular border, which Tiffany Studios did not use in their shades.

There are many other clues and guidelines to look at when determining if a lamp is an authentic Tiffany lamp or not. Some of those things are written about and shown in photos on my web site at Antique Tiffany Lamps. I hope this helps. There are also good books you can buy or get from libraries on my web site for further reference on this topic.

More to come...

Dennis

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